Day Six: Further South Than Any Kubin In History

Hola from the legitamate bottom of the Earth. I´m strapped for time but here´s what´s happend in the past few days:

I spent yesterday with Vivian Holz in Mendoza. She was kind enough to act as my personal tour guide which was very gracious of her. We started off at the Norton winery bodega which afforded the opportunity of some breathtaking scenery and wine tasting. The vineyards overlook 20,000 foot Andean peaks. Safe to say that if I had to work there I´d spend the entire day just staring west and probably be fired within 48 hours for being that drunk naked guy screaming at the mountains. A wonderful place: rustic, charming and rather sophisticated.

After sampling some wines at the tasting bar Vivan took me back to her place for a little lunch and then we headed into the mountains for a brief tour of the Argentine side of the second tallest range in the world. I´ve been to the Chilean side which is decidely more lush. The Argentine side of the Andes, while striking, is barren. There is virtually no vegetation besides the ocassional displaced brush. Given the majestic landscape it makes for some pretty arid scenery. We made our way up to Potrerillos, a huge dam constructed by the Argentines to harness the water that comes from the mountains. Mendoza gets less than 5 inches of rain per year so they need pretty much every drop of the wet stuff. The lake side of the dam is incredible. The water is a florescent shade of Carolina blue and just pops out of the red mountains in an incredible chromatic juxtaposition. I have plenty of pictures of me standing awkwardly with the lake behind me as Vivian snapped away.

Dinner was also a delight. Luis was kind enough to take us all out to one of the best restaurants in town and seeing as Mendoza is known for it´s wine and food, the restaurant, where the name eludes me at the moment, did not disappoint. I go the roasted corn which was baked within the husk, followed by a gaucho-style barbeque chicken breast. Succulent and juicy, it was grilled with just salt but was an all time great meal for me.

I spent the entire day today traveling all over the country. Left Mendoza, headed to Buenos Aires, then flew all the way down to Uiashia which is on Tierra del Fuego. The flight in was a highlight. I was secretly listening to my iPod as Eric Clapton´s ´The Endge of Darkness´ came on. Few things can prepare you for a dusk descent into Tierra del Fuego but the song just seemed so damn fitting. It was perfect. Surveying the barren and rugged landscape, I couldn´t help think what awaits me here in El Calafate. I plan on visiting the glaciers as well as El Chalten, the reknowned hiking town about 2 hours to the north.

The hostel I´m at right know has a wonderful energy. People young and old just mingling in the pine furnished living room, listening to tango and sipping on cervezas. There´s only one computer for the whole hostel which is why I´m pressed for time but the adventure begins tomorrow and I can´t wait.

Until then,
Zee Man